Expert's Opinion

Skin Care Success Is In The Numbers

Dr. Nazarian explains the order of applying products.

By: Rachel Nazarian

Schweiger Dermatology Group

If you’re anything like us, your bathroom cabinet is cluttered with every skin-improving concoction known to man. Gels, serums, creams, lotions – maybe even substances you didn’t know existed (what’s a hydrogel?). If the variety wasn’t confusing enough, applying them incorrectly or in the wrong order may mean you’re not reaping the max benefits, turning all that effort into a waste of your time, and let’s face it, a waste of money.
 
The key to skin care success is to understand what ingredients work together and which order they should be applied. Start with thinner water-based products first (quicker evaporation, quicker absorption) then the thicker oil- based products.
 
Here are some simple guidelines:

1.Water-based solutions like toner should be applied first and can be transferred to skin directly from the bottle with a roll-on or sponge, or on pads.

2.Serums are mostly water, so they’re up next.

3.A classic gel formulation is oil-in-water, and should be applied third. Hydrogels are essentially the same and can also be applied after serums.

4.Lotions, creams and ointment are all oil-water combinations, with lotions having the least amount of oil. Ointment has the moist oil (80%!) and should go on last to avoid blocking other skincare ingredients from penetrating.

Simple right? But where does SPF come in? Application timing varies for chemical vs. sunscreens.
 

Chemical – These sunscreens work by being absorbed into skin and should be applied to clean skin for best protection. Steer clear of applying chemical SPF over products containing anti-aging or chemical resurfacing ingredients to avoid degrading the active ingredients in your sunscreen.
 
Physical – Active ingredients titanium dioxide and zinc oxide work by reflecting radiation. This means these SPFs can be layered on top of other lotions. Just keep in mind that mixing sunscreen with lotions will dilute the SPF number.
 
About the Expert
Dr. Rachel Nazarian joined Schweiger Dermatology after years of practicing various aspects of dermatology, including cosmetic treatments, skin cancer, general dermatology and dermatologic surgery. Dr. Nazarian has written many published articles in medical journals as well as widely respected dermatology textbooks, such as Treatment of Skin Disease. She serves as a faculty member at Mount Sinai Medical Center’s Department of Dermatology, where she completed her dermatology residency. While completing her medical degree at Tulane University School of Medicine, Dr. Nazarian was awarded a grant from the Women’s Dermatology Society. Dr. Nazarian is a board certified dermatologist and Fellow of the American Academy of Dermatology.

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